A COMPLETE GUIDE: Clogged Pores
A pore is basically just a tiny opening on the skin associated with a hair follicle and sebaceous glands. Whilst most of the pores on our bodies are busy growing hairs, facial pores are secreting oil. This is down to the large number of sebaceous glands attached to the pores found on our faces, especially on the nose and chin. These glands produce the waxy substance known as sebum, an oil that protects and nourishes the skin.
Our pores are constantly filling with sebum, dead skin cells and other debris. These evenly patterned tiny, grey or flesh-coloured dots that are often mistaken for whiteheads or even blackheads, are actually called sebaceous filaments.
Sebaceous filaments are a combination of sebum and dead skin cells around a hair follicle, which are whitish-yellowish cylindrical tubes. These filaments are naturally occurring formations, creating a pathway for oil to travel out of the pore and onto the skin.
You’ve probably noticed that if you wait even just a few minutes between cleansing your face and applying product your nose and chin will begin to feel oily. This is your sebaceous filaments at work, bringing oil to the surface of your skin.Everybody has sebaceous filaments but they only become visible as the lining of your pore fills up and become blocked. It is possible to squeeze out the contents of your pores yourself, but they'll just fill right back up in days. Even if you’re able to get a deeper clean or have them professionally expressed your pores will still refill within the month.
Over the years I’ve tried all the most common methods to deal with my sebaceous filament. From steaming to pore strips to a comedone extractor, with little success. When it comes down to it, people with oiler skin types are prone to congestion, and manually removing the gunk clogging our pores only cleans out the tops surface of the skin, resulting in a very temporary, superficial fix.
Believe me, I get it. It’s easy to become obsessed with the sensation of squeezing, I’m very familiar with the satisfying feeling when that thick waxy substance oozes out my pores. It’s both gross and instantly gratifying. However, when it boils down to it, this practice is absolutely hopeless and will never really get rid of your problem.
Before tackling any problem it’s important to really understand what the cause is so that you not just covering up the symptoms but dealing with the root causes. Here are the most common reasons behind the clogging of skin pores:
Perspiration: sweat left sitting on the skin increases your chances of clogged pores.
Pollution: though mostly invisible to the naked eye, dirt, grime and fumes in the air settles into our skin and can have very visible effects.
Sebum: excess oil has nowhere to go, but to sit in your pores.
Makeup: makeup that is not thoroughly cleaned off the skin will likely cause clogging of pores.
Dead skin cells: oil can act something like a glue, holding on to dead skin cells.a
Your clogged pores are caused by a combination of these factors, so to get rid of them you need to tackle them. Like with any other skin concern there’s no quick fix, not a permanent one anyway. You’re going to have to invest time and effort into a consistent, long-term skincare routine. Maintaining daily rituals such as cleansing and exfoliating go a long way in keeping pores free. Lucky for you I have come up with a four-step system that you can follow to keep your pores clean and healthy.
STEP 1: ADEQUATE CLEANSING REGIME
It is essential to clean our skin from dirt and traces of pollution each day. A lot of people don’t realise that their face cleaning method is not sufficient. You’ve probably heard it before, that face wipes do not effectively clean the skin, they just don’t. Cleansing agents work by breaking down makeup and debris on the skin and within the pores and then rinsing removes it all. So, if all you’re using is a face wipe all you are doing is smear dirt, pollutants, bacteria, oil, and makeup all over your face and adding cleansing agents to that mess, and leaving it there.
Wash your skin twice daily using a mild cleanser, whether that’s a gel, foam, cream, oil or balm is up to you and your skin type and needs. If you wearing makeup, I cannot recommend double cleansing enough! Stay away from harsh detergents containing sodium lauryl sulphate as these are very drying and will only lead to more oil production in an attempt to counteract their effects. If a product leaves your skin tight and dry after washing, get rid. Proper am and pm cleansing will leave you with fresh skin, enhancing the absorption of subsequent products.
For a deeper clean combine your cleanser with a cleansing device such as the Luna Foreo or the Clarisonic - Sonic Face Brush. A cleansing device is something that you don’t realise is missing from your life until you try it. I'm not being hyperbolic when I say it will completely transform and revolutionise your daily skincare routine. Any cleansing brush worth the money will unclog your pores of cosmetic residue, oil and grime leaving you with visibly healthier skin.
STEP 2: EXFOLIATE
Skin cells regenerate every three to four weeks, leaving dead skin cells on the very top layer of the skin’s surface. It is important to remove this top layer of skin regularly, to avoid congestion. Using the right exfoliator, or a combination of exfoliating methods can get rid of dead skin before it has a chance to clog pores.
The physical vs chemical exfoliation debate is ongoing and there are defiantly pros and cons on both sides. Personally, I do a combination of both, exfoliation is one of the easiest ways to avoid and unclog pores, so why limit myself?
Using a gentle grainy facial scrub one to three times a week will help uplift impurities, bacteria and dead skin cells. If a scrub isn’t for you or you're looking for something to use daily, there are other ways to manually exfoliate. Facial brushes are very effective at deep cleaning skin with enlarged and clogged pores. Try a manual facial brush or give a Pure Konjac Puff Sponge a go, it’s gentle enough for the most sensitive of skin.
Chemical exfoliants work well for congested skin, they contain acids or enzymes that break down the ‘glue’ that holds dead skin cells together. Unlike physical exfoliants, chemical exfoliants work beyond the top layer of skin, by penetrating the epidermis where they have longer-lasting results.
Using a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) toner or serum will remove surface skin cells, keeping the skin balanced and less oily. BHA’s are oil soluble and able to get into the pore lining and actually dissolve the sebum, leaving behind refined, smoothed skin. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are better to get rid of the surface layer of the clogs. A careful combination of both AHA’s and BHA’s exfoliators is ideal for oily skin. A routine with both helps to purify, control oil and clear clogged pores.
Removing the dead cells layer also allows moisturiser and other skincare products to work more efficiently, as they can get right to the live cells.
STEP 3: FACE MASK
A face mask containing clay and/or activated charcoal is a congested skin superhero, to say the least. Clay and charcoal both draw out and absorb impurities and excess oil from the skin and help to keep the skin pores clean and unclogged. Using a mask one or two times a week is an effective and gentle way to clear pores.
STEP 4: AVOID PORE-CLOGGING INGREDIENTS
If you have skin that is prone to congestion it makes sense to avoid products and ingredients that will clog your pores. Some of the worst offenders for clogging pores are natural products and products that are excellent for other skin conditions, and if you weren’t producing excess oil they’d otherwise be a great addition to your collection.
Do not purchase any skincare or makeup products containing the ingredients listed below. From now on live by this list. I have made a PDF version for your downloading pleasure.
Extra tips:
Stay away from products that induce oil production such as alcohol-based toners that will dry out your skin, causing it to produce even more oil.
Resist squeezing your sebaceous filaments, you’re fighting a losing battle and you’re probably doing damage to your skin, causing enlarged pores and wrinkles.
Keep your hands off your face, you’re spreading dirt and bacteria.
Seeing an esthetician for professional, sanitary pore extraction is a great idea.
